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Aboard the Meriden parlor car: Chef Michael Blonigan

Essex Clipper Dinner Train
1 Railroad Ave., Essex, (860) 767-0103

When it comes to scouting out the best in fine dining, you rarely hear folks mention anything consumed on a plane, train or automobile. So when I spotted an ad touting a luxurious four-course meal ($70 a pop) on the Essex Clipper Dinner Train, I admit I was slightly skeptical. Could a train teetering down the track really produce a four-star meal? Turns out that not only do they know how to grill a great steak, but they’ve figured out how to offer an unforgettable evening.

Essex bills itself as the “best small town in America,” and pulling into the train station run by the Valley Railroad Company, even the parking lot exudes that quaint hometown feel. The station houses several storybook steam locomotives, a cute café car, even a museum housed in the historic Witch Hazel Bottling Plant. Stepping out of our tiny two-door car, a smiling older gent waved our way.

“Looking for some dinner?” He pointed toward two Pullman train cars, both painted the traditional “Pullman green.” Tonight we would be dining aboard the Meriden and the Wallingford, two refurbished 1920s parlor cars that originally ran passengers between New York and Boston. “Better behave. Looks like I’m your engineer.” He tipped his hat and waved us on our way.

We ambled over to a small line of folks and gave the host our name. “Please seat our guests at table 10 in the Wallingford.” A young waiter, wearing the classic black attire, extended his hand to escort us. Pulling us up on board, he wound us through a narrow train corridor, past a stocked bar, through the elegantly decorated Meriden and straight to our cozy table for two.

The eating began instantly, as our first appetizer course sat ready and waiting—veggies and crackers accompanied by a creamy pink-colored dip. We washed it down with two Samuel Smith beers: an oatmeal stout and nut brown ale served in big brown bottles and poured in frosty cold mugs.

Appetizers were followed by warm dinner rolls and a salad with creamy garlic dressing, then a killer prime rib, a piping hot seafood casserole brimming with shrimp, scallops, tons of cheese, fresh zucchini and roasted potatoes. For sweets, we devoured chocolate cake loaded with chocolate frosting and raspberry sauce, and strawberry shortcake layered with phylo dough.

Everything was prepared on board. The Kitchen Car, built by the Army in 1953, was originally created to provide hot meals for troops traveling aboard. In 1986, the Valley Railroad Company bought the car, renamed it the Colonial Hearth, and turned it into a tourist attraction.

The kitchen runs like clockwork. When you call to buy tickets for the 2.5-hour ride to Haddam and back, you’re asked for your dinner order. Food’s then delivered hours before send-off and the cooking furiously begins. There’s plenty of space for prep work, a huge range for cooking, even a running dishwasher to clean up the mess.

But the Essex Clipper is all about the ambience. The conductor actually yells “All Aboard!” The vintage Wallingford car is dressed up in green swag curtains, antique lights, a stained-glass partition and plush carpeting. Frank Sinatra softly croons old classics. Families wave as you meander through rolling backyards and lazy harbors. The toilet actually has a lever to pull for flushing—and the “wash room” sits just across the hall with buttons for hot, cold and drain. Waiters carry your warm bread in baskets, and the bartender doesn’t skimp on cocktails just because the train seems a bit wobbly.

The food tastes better because of all the characters and crazy conversation. To our back, a family buzzed over grandpa’s balloon-filled birthday. To our left, a couple conversed about corn dogs and later shared that they were celebrating their 55th anniversary. We told them we were nearing five months—they brought over a big slice of cake. Just in front sat a dapper old gentleman full of bad jokes:
Conductor: “May I punch your tickets sir?”
Mr. Dapper: “Punch my tickets and I’ll punch you.”

Same-day reservations can be made for the train, but larger groups are encouraged to call in advance. And hop on board quickly, ‘cuz the train stays on track only through the end of October.

editor@newhavenadvocate.com